People all over Spain will tonight be celebrating the festival of San Juan in a spectacle that has to be seen to be believed. The main festivities typically take place on the beach where bonfires are lit, tempting food is eaten, strong liquor imbibed and a host of traditions are upheld. Usually, it takes place on or around 23rd June each year but festivities can last the full month of June, especially in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
I was lucky enough to be part of the celebrations back in 2011 when I was asked to join the fun and frivolity on Las Canteras beach in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
I thought I had seen this idyllic bay packed from promenade to water’s edge on a hot weekend but nothing quite prepared me for the sight of thousands of partygoers and bonfires lining every square inch of sand at 11 o’clock at night.
Soon our small party had the bonfire lit and the drinks flowing. My friends explained that it is customary to jump over the bonfire three times for good luck and somewhat reluctantly I obliged.
The festival has pagan roots and one of our party (hailing from celtic Galicia) recounted the history of the festival for me. He also explained that he had brought aguardiente for us to drink, again a tradition.
This magical jet-fuel-like drink is heated in a pot over the bonfire and raised up high in a ladle to create a flow of fire. It was like nothing I had seen before or since.
Soon enough the time came and the clock struck midnight. This signalled the first boom of fuegos incendiales (fireworks) and a mass rush towards the sea with people hoping to wash away any bad omens and bad luck and bathe in the fresh sea water.
I have never gone into the sea at night before but the water was calm and refreshing and while there was a quick shock to the senses, the prospect of another shot of aguardiente soon made this subside.
San Juan is definitely something that must be experienced and I would encourage anyone who has the opportunity to jump feet-first into this most mystical of nights.
