For those seeking a mix of traditional cuisine and modern culinary invention, El Born is perhaps a small haven in a city full of inciting and diverse restaurants. All within easy walking distance through the narrow streets and lanes of Barcelona’s bohemian district, you will find dark, cool alleyway-like cafes and expansive minimalist gastro-bars as well as the decades-established local eateries that give El Born its intoxicating appeal.
BREAKFAST
Located on the main street of Passeig de Born, I came upon café El Born, with its green wooden signs and door handles smooth and shiny from generations of wear. The place is compact to say the least (maybe 10 tables) but it is filled with locals sipping a morning café solo, reading the daily news or chatting with other regulars.
Taking a table in the very back (next to the smallest spiral staircase I’ve ever seen) I ordered 3 types of empanada (pasty) and a café con leche. I struggled to decide on my favourite as they were all so hearty in flavour with beautifully light pastry, although I am rather fond of an empanada de atún. This is a great spot for people watching and getting the lowdown on everyday Barcelona life. I could easily have whiled away a number of hours in this quaint yet popular spot, slowing trembling from the caffeine buzz while gossiping with my friend.
LUNCH
Just along the street from cafe El Born is La Pizza del Born (I feel a theme
running here), a hangout for many during the summer who come to indulge in the city’s best pizza (or so a local tells me) and relax on the benches of the tree-lined boulevard. The choice of toppings is huge (28 at the last count) and the servings very generous. I enjoyed two mouth-watering slices for less than 4 euros and watched as a constant stream of pizza lovers stopped by for their deep-pan fix. Ideal for merienda or an early evening snack too.
DINNER
Bustling by day and buzzing by night, the Mercat de Santa Caterina is a foodie’s paradise. The stalls of the market are awash with
freshly-caught fish, hand-reared meats and locally-grown fruit and veg. The market not only houses the shouts and unrelenting banter of the traders but is home to a spectacular restaurant.
I stopped by for an early dinner at Cuines Santa Caterina. The restaurant, like the market is less touristic than La Boqueria and the bars of La Rambla.
Of course, all the produce for the tapas and raciones at this modern tasca comes fresh from the market meaning that each dish is not just bursting with exquisite flavours but also local pride.
I sampled the chistorra, pimientos de padrón, boquerones and the patatas bravas. Washed down with a glass of chilled vino tinto, the meal made me wish I could dine here every day.
