Travel writing proved somewhat tricky in 2020, as did eating out (except that time when we were all encouraged to) but in many ways it made me appreciate those moments I was able to enjoy – and surprisingly, there were many. Here are a few travel and food tales from Spain and Wales (and London) that I really loved in 2020.
CELEBRATING MY FIRST MARI LWYD
Back at the start of January, I popped along to the London Welsh Centre‘s Mari Lwyd (Grey Mare) celebrations. I’d heard about the Mari Lwyd custom but never witnessed it. Traditionally in Wales, people would go from house to house with Mari (a horse’s skull on a pole covered in a sheet) singing improvised verses, which the householders would then have to respond to with their own verse. It went back and fore until the householders relented and Mari was allowed to enter and everyone in the Mari Lwyd party would be offered food and drink.
The London version in 2020 was a little different, with Mari Lwyd visiting several pubs before ending the night at the London Welsh Centre on Gray’s Inn Road with more singing (I’ve never visited the LWC and there not be singing) and a twmpath dance (a bit like a Welsh ceilidh). I thought there might be a handful of people, but there were hundreds and it’s like nothing I’ve experienced, a mix of absolute nonsense, food and drink, making new friends and pure joy. Here’s hoping 2021 will bring many more celebrations at the LWC.
FAILING AT THE PORRÓN
Every year I try to attend one of Brindisa‘s calçotadas to feast on the soft sweet calçots (a sort of large sweet spring onion from Cataluña) that have been charred over the open flames before being dipped into almondy tomatoey romesco sauce. Never one to shy away from a challenge, I also gave drinking out of the porrón a go. What can I say? I started strong and ended by soaking my shirt in Vanish. Glorious!
SINGING FOR ST DAVID
I joined my dear friends in Côr Y Boro to sing some Welsh classics for the shoppers and stall holders at Borough Market on St David’s Day. It was one of our last live performances before virtual choir practice and concerts came into play.
LUXURIATING IN MÁLAGA
Only a week before lockdown, I was lucky enough to be invited to visit a brand new boutique hotel in the Spanish city of Málaga, Palacio Solecio. Nestled away in the hodge-podge streets and alleyways of city’s historic central district, the hotel is steps away from all the main sights such as the majestic Alcazaba, Picasso Museum, and Málaga Cathedral. The hotel itself takes residence in an old town house – once a playing card factory – and many of its original features remain, including the typical Malagueña painted facade. I loved the in-house bar and restaurant, Balausta. The interior patio setting of lauded chef José Carlos García’s intimate restaurant is quite simply, beautiful –with its checkerboard tiled floor, Arabic-style arches and artworks, and stellar lunch and dinner menus. Refillable toiletries in the rooms in an effort to cut down on single-use plastics, and the in-room mini-bar stocked with local products also got a big tick from me.
COOKING MY WAY THROUGH LOCKDOWN
I’m not sure what I would have done without my kitchen, local shops and market traders, or my flatmate Shannon during lockdown. Food was the thing that kept me going, whether that was supporting local restaurants by ordering takeaways (looking at you D Grande), trying out new recipes and making some things I’ve never made including ravioli, sushi, faggots and peas, pikelets, or simply wandering around M&S Foodhall for something to do. Oh, and then there was that time that I did a Welsh cake class over zoom for my fellow choir members – all excellent students. Thank you to my other flatmate Bex for the supplies of flour.
EATING OUT TO HELP OUT
While it was joyous to get to dine at my favourite London spots such as Sabor, Little José, Barrafina and Bancone, it was even more wonderful to discover and rediscover many small independent restaurants in Wales. Bar44 felt like a big comforting hug as soon as I stepped through the doors, while New Olé brought me a warming sense of a family-run tasca in Spain (in Newport of all places). The steak at Pasture (and the Old Fashioned) sated my carnivorous palate and both the Ridgeway Bistro, Ridgeway Cafe and Quarters Coffee provided gratifying sustenance when a different four walls (or none) were needed.
WALKING THE WALES COAST PATH
When I was finally able to journey back to Wales, and after a very tearful reunion with my family, I headed to West Wales for a few nights to enjoy the last of the warm weather and walk some of the incredible coastal path. Basing myself in the multi-pastel-coloured Georgian town of Aberaeron, I headed south towards Newquay on a not too challenging part of the path and was rewarded with spectacular views of Cardigan Bay and some much needed open space and fresh air following lockdown. I stayed in the cleanest apartment I’d ever been in (and in fact the only spot that was still available at such short notice) and watched the mist roll in from the sea from my attic room window. I continued my adventures down the coast stopping at Cardigan, Fishguard, St David’s, Tenby, Laugharne and the Gower and finally my beloved Porthcawl. I knew I was going to eat well but I was thrilled by breakfast on the harbourside at The Cellar, the fresh sea bass and scallops at The Hive, gorgeously chewy sourdough from Bara Menyn, and the famous crab roll with seaweed sauce from Cafe Môr while on the beach at Freshwater West.
RECEIVING POST AND PARCELS
I have lost count of the number of books I’ve ordered over the last year. In fact, it was becoming a bit of a running joke in the flat every time another cardboard envelope thudded on the carpet. They included among others, Brown’s Madeira, Canary Islands and Azores (1913), which contained this fabulous quote: “It is unnecessary to cement friendship by asking an acquaintance to put his legs under the household mahogany.” I was also delighted to receive two parcels from Chacho Souvenirs – a small souvenir company set up in Gran Canaria to help SMEs on the islands who were struggling most through the downturn in tourism. They have recently turned their attention to cleaning the archipelago’s beaches.
Along with my friend and fellow journo Mia Holt, I started tutoring students at Cardiff University’s prestigious School of Journalism. All of the students’ placements had been cancelled and I hoped that weekly sessions about the realities of being a journalist might make up for it in some small way. And then as a thank you, they only went and made me cry by sending me a hamper of fabulous Welsh food and wine including one of my favourites, Black Bomber Extra Mature Cheddar.
FINDING PARADISE
November seemed the ideal time to do some article research and I headed to Lanzarote to update my notes. Little did I know that the government would put the Canary Islands back on the quarantine list shortly after I arrived back and had sent countless pitches to editors. Still, while I was there I certainly wasn’t disappointed, finding food heaven at SeBE restaurant in Costa Teguise with the most comprehensive list of Canarian wines I’ve ever seen. Talking of wines, I got a guided tour of the volcanic vineyards with the very knowledgeable and affable Dan and Ollie at Wine Tours Lanzarote – a must for anyone visiting. I finally managed to get to La Graciosa for a day after years of promising myself the trip to this eighth official Canary Island perched just off the top of Lanzarote. A wild ride in a 4×4 and I came across the most beautiful beach I think I have ever seen, La Concha. Swathes of sand, bright turquoise waters and a backdrop of rugged volcanic red mountains.
In Lanzarote I stayed once again at the most well-equipped self-catering bungalows I’ve ever witnessed. The little white-washed houses at Jardines del Sol are complete with dishwasher, washing machine, coffee maker, and even a filtered water tap to cut down on the never-ending supply of plastic drinking water bottles. I also had a look around Hotel Fariones. It was the first hotel in Lanzarote and has been completely rebuilt and refurbished and is (in my opinion) the type of hotel the Canaries has been waiting for. Chic but not stuffy, stellar dining and bar options (including the famous 1960s Cueva Doña Juana – once the place to be seen), and views for days over the Atlantic to neighbouring Fuerteventura and Isla de Lobos.
All in all, it turns out it wasn’t such a bad year, but I can’t wait to get on the move again in 2021.
