My old flatmate used to call it my ‘old lady wine’, and it’s true that it has something of an old lady reputation here in the UK, but sherry is far from old fashioned. We tend to think of it as being very sweet, drunk in clunky schooners and what you give your Nan when she comes around for a celebration or after Christmas dinner – although my Nannie Gwen loved ice cold fino (dry) – but sherry is really diverse and goes with pretty much any meal. I recently attended a wine tasting where we sampled a gorgeous manzanilla sherry – Williams & Humbert Alegría Manzanilla – and sherry was described as the ultimate capsule wardrobe: something for every occasion. And it’s right, from dry varieties all the way through to ‘Christmas pudding in a glass’ Pedro Ximénez sweet sherry, it pairs with pretty much anything – although it’s often best just with a glorious slice of jamón. I use it so often in place of wine when recipes call for it and find it brings an extra depth to dishes.
Now, chicken livers are not something you usually think about rustling up and there is a certain squeamishness about them, but as Kay Plunkett-Hogge says in her book A Sherry and a Little Plate of Tapas, they are the basis of pâté, so what’s all the fuss about? And when combined with sherry – both fino and oloroso are divine for this – the results are spectacular and make for the perfect tapa or light lunch. In the Canaries, you’ll often find liver on the menu, although it tends to be lamb or cow’s liver – and instead of the Castilian hígados (liver), you’ll find it on the menu as carajacas.
INGREDIENTS
300g chicken livers
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp sweet pimentón (paprika)
1 tbsp plain flour
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
Small handful of dates, roughly chopped
1 bay leaf
100ml oloroso or fino sherry
100ml chicken stock
Large handful spinach
1 tsp runny honey
Makes enough for one large tapa (ración)
METHOD
1. Prepare the livers by removing any extra fat or sinews, wash, and pat dry with kitchen paper.
2. In a mixing bowl, mix together the flour and spices before adding the prepared livers and tossing to coat.
3. Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan, and gently soften the onions and garlic before adding the livers.
4. Brown the livers on both sides and then add the dates and bay leaf to the pan. Turn up the heat and add the sherry and stock.
5. Let it bubble for a moment before turning down to a simmer and adding the spinach.
6. Cook for around 5 minutes until the livers are cooked through – they should be pink on the inside but not raw.
7. Serve with a wedge of crusty bread and a glass of chilled fino or make into a meal with mashed potato.
This is also great on toast as a light lunch.
Let me know how you get on by dropping me a line or using #RecipesByRoss.
