Faggots were always something we had when staying in Nan’s caravan in Porthcawl. They’d most likely be the Mr Brain’s version from the local supermarket thrown into the saucepan from frozen with water, several beef Oxo cubes (enough to make your tongue sting a little) and a good splash of gravy browning. Is that a South Wales trait I wonder? Having gravy so black and thick you can stand a fork up in it? Anyway, Nan would add in a tin of Bigga Marrowfat Peas and cut up slices of thick white Braces Bread into squares for us to dip in and soak up all the gravy.
Faggots are perhaps the ultimate in frugal food, using up the offal from the pig (or lamb) that would possibly go to waste otherwise – but then that is also what makes them so delicious and full of flavour. Traditionally, they would also use the caul to wrap or cover them while cooking, and you can get caul in a good butchers, but I make them without.
I guess I love this dish not just because it’s all those good elements of nostalgia, heartiness and warmth, but it’s peppery and almost medicinal. I suppose it’s not dissimilar to a Sunday dinner, just in a sort of soup form. I still buy Mr Brain’s from time to time, but faggots – while a bit time consuming – are relatively easy to make yourself. Here’s how to make traditional Welsh faggots and peas.
INGREDIENTS
For the faggots:
225g pork belly
150g lamb’s liver (or pig’s liver, or heart)
2 rashers of bacon
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 small apple, roughly chopped
60g breadcrumbs
1 free-range egg
2 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
1/4tsp salt
1/2tsp ground mace (or mix of nutmeg and ginger)
1/2tsp ground black pepper
150ml beef stock
Butter for greasing
For the gravy:
1tbsp lard of a good drizzle of olive oil
1tbsp plain flour
500ml beef stock (use two stock cubes)
Splash of gravy browning
For the peas:
1 tin Bigga Marrowfat peas (or two handfuls of frozen garden peas, or 1 tin mushy peas)
Makes around 6-8 faggots
METHOD
1. Throw all the ingredients for the faggots – except the beef stock and butter – in a food processor and blitz until it forms a course mix but enough that the ingredients are well blended.
2. Lightly grease the base of a large meat tin or cast iron casserole pot with butter or olive oil and preheat the oven to Gas Mark 4/180°C.
3. Using your hands, make 6 large meatballs using the raw mixture and place spread out in the tin.
4. Pour over the 150ml beef stock and cover fully with foil. Place in the preheated oven and cook for 35 mins, then remove the foil cover and cook for a further 15 mins until cooked through and browned on top.
5. Carefully remove the faggots to a plate.
6. Either using the roasting tin on the hob or transferring the meat juices and crusty bits of meat from the pan to a saucepan, gently heat along with a good drizzle of olive oil or a tbsp or lard.
7. When the fat is hot, tip in the flour and combine well. Start adding the stock bit by bit stirring all the time to combine into a gravy.
8. Add the splash of gravy browning to deepen the colour and return the faggots to the pan.
9. Drain the peas and add to the pan. Heat for a few minutes until the gravy has thickened and everything is hot.
10. Serve in deep bowls with a sprinkling of white pepper and plenty of bread to soak up the gravy.
Let me know how you get on by dropping me a line or using #RecipesByRoss.
