I’m going to go on record and say that Cardiff is my favourite city in the world. Okay, I know I haven’t visited them all and it is a stone’s throw from where I grew up but as capital cities go, it wins my vote and here’s why.
ARRIVALS
As one of Europe’s newest capital cities (less than 60 years old), Cardiff has shed its industrial past to relaunch itself as a truly modern metropolis. The Welsh capital plays host to some of world sport’s biggest fixtures at the 74,500 capacity, city centre Millennium Stadium. A short walk away and you can witness the city’s architectural splendour in the historic civic centre buildings. On a sunny day (of which there are more than people think) you could easily be in any famous European city as the surroundings and atmosphere exude a continental laid-back nature.
STAY
I delight in a destination’s heritage and my two Cardiff hotel picks are both steeped in cultural history. It also helps that they are both in great locations too.
The Angel Hotel
Like a good vintage wine (and it’s no secret I like a glass or two), the Victorian Angel Hotel is full of depth and character. Often overlooked by visitors seeking the more modern hotel chains, this 102 bedroom classic offers a touch of good old-fashioned charm right in the heart of the city centre. Situated on the corner of Castle Street and Westgate Street, guest can enjoy views of Cardiff Castle or the home of the Welsh Rugby Union and Cardiff Arms Park. Add to this the free Wi-Fi (an essential) and free use of a local health club (not so essential) and your weekend is set.
The Angel also used to be the main hotel for the Welsh rugby team many moons ago and they used to walk to their matches across Westgate Street to the stadium.
Jolyon’s Boutique Hotel
If you are a believer that the best things come in small packages then Jolyon’s Boutique Hotel (a former seamen’s lodge) will be just up your street. Located opposite the striking Wales Millennium Centre, the Georgian townhouse boasts 6 super stylish rooms and a glorious full Welsh breakfast. The locally-loved and award-winning restaurant, Bar Cwtch, offers speciality beers and a host of hearty Welsh cuisine.
EXPLORE
Cardiff has transformed what was once one of the largest and busiest coal exporting ports in the world into a blissfully relaxing cultural development.
Once known as Tiger Bay and the birthplace of legendary Welsh songstress, Shirley Bassey, is now Cardiff Bay.
Take a look at Y Senedd, home to the Welsh Government, with is glass and slate in stark contrast to the gleaming terracotta blocks and intricate detail of the famous Pierhead Building.The docklands biggest export these days in television drama, with the BBC’s Doctor Who, Sherlock, Torchwood and Casualty all housed here.
You cannot ignore the striking Wales Millennium Centre which hosts major national and international shows and concerts as well as free performance spaces.The city centre, only 15 minutes walk down Lloyd George Avenue is a bustling shopping and leisure hub. For an alternative experience, the Victorian arcades provide a wealth of treasures and independent shops.
CONSUME
Modern Welsh cuisine has come on leaps and bounds over the last few years and many restaurants source local produce to make fresh, hearty food. Of the traditional delicacies, you really must try Welsh cakes (sweet scone-like treats) and laverbread (salty seaweed).
The Potted Pig
Situated in an old bank vault you could easily pass this hidden gem but take a walk down the stairs and a seasonal menu bursting with mouth-watering dishes will greet you. My current favourite is the free-range pork belly with seasonal greens, squash puree, pickled and crisped beets. (Phwoah!) I will warn you that this place is very popular and a reservation is a good idea.
Pettigrew Tes Rooms
We are suckers for a good cuppa and a piece of homemade cake and David at the Pettigrew Teas Rooms serves up a treat every time. Housed in the rather grand West Lodge at the Entrance to Bute Park, the tearoom comes with a very interesting back-story. Once sufficiently nourished why not take to the water with a trip on the Water Taxi down the River Taff to Cardiff Bay?
THE LINGO
Although English is the main language of the city, thanks to the Welsh Language Act and steps to keep the language alive, Welsh is becoming much more widely used in the Capital. You will notice that most signs are bilingual and it is not uncommon to hear Welsh spoken around the city.
To all intents and purposes, Welsh seems an extremely complicated jumble of letters, in reality, the language is phonetic and pronunciation easy to learn. Here are a few basic terms to get you started.
Bore da (Bor-air-dah) – Good morning
Shw mae (Shoo-my) – Hello
Croeso (Croy-so) – Welcome
Diolch (Dee-ol-ch) – Thanks (the CH sound is like the Scottish loch)
Cwtch (Coo-tsh) – Hug (this is an affectionate term for a warm embrace and is used frequently)
Bach (Bar-ch) – Little one (often used as a substitute of boy or mate)
WHAT’S ON
RBS 6 Nations
Rugby fever sweeps over Cardiff during February and March each year. With many matches taking place at the impressive Millennium Stadium, the city centre gets filled to bursting with fans and supporters (in Wales, rugby is king). Don’t feel you have to get match tickets to join in the patriotic atmosphere, most of the city’s historic and modern pubs, bars and cafes will televise the match and the warm spirited nature of the host city will drive away any fears of animosity or trepidation. Everyone celebrates and commiserates together in the Welsh Capital with a good pint of Welsh Brains.
BBC Cardiff Singer of the World
If rugby’s not your thing then how about catching an earful of the latest operatic star at St David’s Hall. Entrants from across the globe battle it out for the chance to be crowned Singer of the World. This biennial showcase of vocal talent brings together agents, opera directors and stars to witness the birth of a new young powerhouse singer. Dame Kiri Te Kanawa presides over the nonsense judging panel in what is a week-long celebration of music.
Winter Wonderland
Yes, I know that this is becoming old hat, with most cities having their markets and festivities but Cardiff might just surprise you. First and foremost, the manmade ice rink under the watchful eye of the imposing City Hall will get you into the festive mood before you head off to the quaint Christmas market stalls, open most days from mid-November. My favourite part is the Victorian arcades where the Christmas lights give a truly magical quality. To warm yourself, why not try a drop of spirit from one of the many local micro-distilleries.
NEED TO KNOW
Since 2011, there has been a 5p charge on all single-use carrier bags (Yes, even MacDonald’s Drive Thru’) so don’t forget to take a bag when you go shopping if you want to avoid the charge.
On match days at the Millennium Stadium, the city centre becomes a mainly pedestrian zone and Central Station extremely busy. If travelling on these days then give yourself extra time for diversions and crowds.
Public transport is relatively inexpensive and most major sights are within easy walking distance of each other.
NICE TO KNOW
Cardiff is a very green city with lots of parkland and open space. If you feel the need to escape the city scene for an hour, venture north from the Castle through the picturesque Bute Park or head over the impressive barrage to the Victorian seaside town of Penarth.
Yes, this is Wales and its reputation for rain is not unfounded so pop an umbrella in your bag just in case.
If you are interested in learning more about the history of Cardiff, visit the Cardiff Story located in The Hayes. This free museum and exhibition details the development of the city. Don’t miss the beautifully intricate tiled corridor.
DEPARTURES
Like all great travellers, I have seen more than I can remember, and remember more than I have seen.
– Benjamin Disraeli
