Latas de pescado

On the tapas trail in Las Letras, Madrid

There are certain words or phrases that simply cannot be translated into another language. One such phrase that I recently tried (and failed) to translate was “de tapas”. The closest I could get to was “to go for tapas” which didn’t seem to cut the mustard. I inanely tried to anglicise with “tapa-ing”. The problem is, any such translation doesn’t adequately do “de tapas” justice. The sentiment of the phrase itself is the problem. It embodies a whole cultural experience that us Brits just don’t have and it is difficult to convey that having tapas is more than simply eating.

This whole lost-in-translation issue was as a result of an escapade to España earlier this month.

De Tapas con MahouDE TAPAS CON MAHOU

On a recent visit to Madrid, I was delighted to discover that the Las Letras neighbourhood was playing host to a tapas festival and 38 of the district’s bars, restaurants and cafes were putting up their best tapas for a competition, all sponsored by beer company, Mahou.

At each of the deliciously different locales, customers on the ruta (route) could enjoy the house tapa and a small bottle of Mahou all for the ridiculously reasonable price of €2,20.
The festival ran from 5th to 15th June and  this historic literary, bohemian area was quaintly advertised as, “Las Letras, donde vivir es un arte” (Las Letras, where to live is an art).

Las Letras - Flea MarketDECISIONS, DECISIONS

While I did attempt to sample as many of these magnificent morsels as I could, inevitably I could not get through them all. Of those I did manage to stumble my way to, through Las Letras bustling, artistically decorated streets, these were my favourites:

Venue: Vertical Caffé
Tapa: Brie, jamón Ibérico and tomato jam pincho.
Verdict: This ultra-modern café facing the Caixaforum Madrid is only let down by its plastic glasses and just-a-bit-too-high bar stools. The succulent and salty Ibérico ham made the perfect combo to the soft, sweet tomato jam.


Venue: La Piola

Tapa: Rye bread sandwich with avocado, jamón Ibérico, tomato and a hint of pesto and mint.Chandeliers
Verdict: La Piola feels as though you have stepped into a pop-up café with stripped-back walls and what seems like someone’s living room furniture. The ambience is cross between homely, vintage and cool. The addition of mint to this delightful sandwich gave it an extra
edge and gave a refreshing zing to the palate

Venue: Viva Madrid
Tapa: Pincho of ropa vieja (meat and potato stew)
Verdict: From the outside Viva Madrid is beautiful but it is not until you venture indoors that you see the magnificence of the building with its vaulted, ornate ceilings and dazzling chandeliers. This tapa certainly surprised me as it tasted exactly like stewed steak and mashed potato that my grandmother used to make. Unfortunately this beautiful locale is let down by its rather unaccommodating staff.


Venue: De Rodríguez & SalasDe Rodríguez & Salas

Tapa: Sea bass and seafood cocktail served in a tin
Verdict: Could a bar be any cooler? With vermouth on tap and a full-sized bicycle adorning the wall, this is the height of modern, artistic Madrid. The tapa was also the best on the route with fleshy sea bass mixed with octopus in a tangy sauce all served in a shiny sardine tin. My new favourite food spot in the city.

Details of other tapas events sponsored by Mahou can be found here.

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